Double Gusset on Bottom Toe Up Sock Pattern (Perfect for Self Striping Yarn)
Supplies:
100 grams Sock Yarn
Size US#2 (2.75mm) needles (or size necessary to obtain gauge of 9
stitches = 1”)
Knitting needles 2 sizes larger to bind off with.
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
pm - place marker
sm - slip marker
tbl – thru the back loop
p2tog – purl 2 together
ssk – slip 1 knit wise, slip 1 knit wise, put them both back on
left needle and knit tbl (thru back loop)
k2togfb – knit 2 stitches together from the front but do not drop
those stitches off needle, then knit same 2 together thru the back loop to
create second stitch. Now drop the 2
stitches knit into off the needle.
M1L – Insert left needle under the strand of yarn that runs
between the stitch just worked and the next stitch from front to back, now knit
the stitch into the back.
M1R – Insert the left needle under the strand of yarn that runs
between the stitch you just worked and the next stitch from beck to front, now
knit the stitch into the front.
Sizes S (M, L)
Cast on 24 stitches using Judy’s Magic Cast on with 12 stitches on
each needle…. After cast on, k all stitches once. According to Judy’s Magic Cast on, the second
needle of stitches should be knit thru the back loop. I am not sure what I do wrong with my cast on,
but I do not do this because it actually twists my stitches, so do this first
round whichever way your stitches look best to you.
This pattern is written out as if you were using magic loop with 2
needles. It can easily be converted for
DPN’s or 9” circular.
Increases:
Round 1: Needle
1: k1, M1L, knit to last stitch on needle, M1R, k1;
Needle 2:
k1, M1L, knit to last stitch on needle, M1R, k1
Round 2: Knit all stitches
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 till toe reaches 56 (64, 72) stitches; 28 (32, 36) on each needle.
Knit in round until sock is approx. 3 1/2” less than desired
length.
We will start increasing for the first gusset now. Since we want the gusset on the bottom we
need to place some markers in this next round.
You will place markers and remove them 3 times…..
Next round
Needle 1 will be the instep stitches and the stitch count will not
change, knit all stitches.
Needle 2 will be where we work the gusset and the heel, k13 (15, 17),
pm, M1L, k2, M1R, pm, k13 (15, 17).
Increase rounds
Round 1: Needle
1: knit all stitches
Needle 2:
knit to marker, sm, M1L, knit to marker, M1R, sm, knit to end of row
Round 2: Needle
1: knit all stitches
Needle 2:
knit all stitches
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 above until there are 38 (42, 46) stitches
on Needle 2. **You can remove your stitch markers on Round 2 of your last
increase, you will need them again in the next round.
Next round
Needle 1: knit all stitches
Needle 2: knit k18 (20, 22), pm, M1L, k2, M1R, pm, k18 (20, 22).
Increase rounds
Round 1: Needle
1: knit all stitches
Needle 2:
knit to marker, sm, M1L, knit to marker, M1R, sm, knit to end of row
Round 2: Needle
1: knit all stitches
Needle 2:
knit all stitches
Repeat rounds 1 and 2 above until there are 48 (54, 60) stitches
on Needle 2. **You can remove your
stitch markers on Round 2 of your last increase, you will need them again in
the next round anymore.
Heel Turn
Knit across Needle 1
For the rest of the Heel Turn you will only be knitting back and
forth on Needle 2
Row 1: k10 (11, 12), pm,
k27 (31, 35), sl1, pm on left needle, bring yarn to front, put slipped stitch
on left needle, turn work
Row 2: bring yarn to front,
p to 1 st before marker, sl1, put yarn to back, put slipped stitch on left
needle, turn work
Row 3: move yarn to back, k
to 3 sts before the last wrapped stitch, sl1, bring yarn to front, put slipped
stitch on left needle, turn work
Row 4: bring yarn to front,
p to 3 sts before the last wrapped stitch, sl1, put yarn in back, put slipped
stitch on left needle, turn work
Repeat Rows 3 & 4 above until there are 2 (6, 4) unwrapped
stitches in the center (end after a purl row…a row 4)
Heel Flap
Still knitting on only Needle 2
Row 21 sl1, k to 1 st before the marker, be sure to work your wraps with their stitches as you go (to do this, you knit the stitch that is wrapped and the yarn that is wrapping it as a k2tog), sl1, remove marker, put slipped stitch on left needle, k this stitch, its wrap, and the next st all together tbl, turn work
Row 3: *sl1, k1* repeat to 1 st before gap (created by the slipped stitches), ssk, turn work
Repeat Rows 3 & 4 above until all of the stitches on the sides
have been worked ending with a purl row.
You should have 28 (32, 36) on Needle 2 once again.
Knit all stitches across Needle 2 and now you can go back to knitting in the round on both needles. However, here is a SIDE NOTE:
SIDE NOTE: I found that
just starting to knit in the round created a small hole next to my heel flap so
this is what I did for the very next round after your heel flap, I have tried
to word it so it is not too confusing: knit
all stitches on needle 1 to the last stitch.
For the last stitch, borrow one stitch from Needle 2 and k2togfb the
last stitch from Needle 1 and the first stitch from Needle 2. Now, take the second stitch created from this
k2togfb and put it on Needle 2 to replace the one you borrowed….you are
basically making two stitches from two stitches, but the reason for this weird
way of doing it, it just so you pull the last stitch from needle 1 and the first
stitch from needle 2 together and avoid a hole.
Continue to knit in the round until your sock leg is desired
length minus ribbed cuff.
Knit in a *k2, p2* repeat for as long as desired ribbed cuff, bind
off with larger needle, weave in ends and love the way this pattern ‘Hugs’ your
foot!
Enjoy!!!
Happy Happy Knitting! I have a friend testing this pattern right now, but if you have any problems, please feel free to tell me...I want to get any errors corrected.
Thank you for the pattern Carrie! I am very new to sock knitting, and have never done a toe-up sock, but just grazing through your pattern, it seems to be pretty simple to follow. I love working on 9" needles.
ReplyDeleteThank you for sharing this ingenious pattern. I look forward to trying it!
ReplyDeleteSounds interesting however there is something not clear. After doing the gusset increases on needle 2, you continue to add M1L and R but describe this as a decrease???? Did you mean to do a decrease such as K2tog in this segment?
ReplyDeleteThere are two sections of increases (for double gusset). You do not decrease till you get past the heel flap and you are knitting only on needle 2. I do not see where I label "decreases" but still instruct M1L and M1R....can you point it out to me so I can correct it?
DeleteNo you did not specify decreases. I was not understanding the instruction. So you are saying there are 2 separate gussets, one over the other before you do the heel flap?
DeleteYes, one right after the other. Both are smaller than a normal gusset, but with the two smaller ones (one right after the other), it really hugs your foot!
ReplyDeleteHi , really like this way of knitting the heel and subtraction . May have a video ?
DeleteЕлена, what portion do you need a video on? I would be happy to make a video for you!
DeleteI'm loving this! Checked my gauge and have to use size 1 needles :D. Working hard on doing this two at a time, thank you so much for writing this out!!
ReplyDeleteMy email is cen63846@yahoo.com. How do I change it from cen63846@gmail.com?
ReplyDeleteRegarding Judy’s Magic Cast and knitting through the back loop. There is a way of doing this CO without having to knit through the back loop. This is a note from my project page regarding this. JMCO:
ReplyDeleteShould one be so incline to try it. This is what I do. Everything is same as normal JMCO. I just wrap both top and bottom stitches from the bottom of the needle and over the top. From 6 o’clock to 12 o’clock, so to speak. I think people tend to wrap the bottom needle from bottom to middle and the top needle from top to middle.
Indeed Judy Becker in her own video has a mix of twisted and non-twisted stitches in the other/second side of her CO. Now if we can wrap in the direction where they are seated correctly one would not have to knit through the BL.
As always it's best just to make sure where the leading leg is before knitting the stitch.
On your pattern you state how you avoided getting a hole in the sock when beginning to knit in the round after the heel is knit. When I do this I get a little bar there that doesn’t look attractive. Secondly, when I come around the sock on the other side, I get a large gaping hole. I didn’t see how you dealt with the hole on the other side of the sock. Could you clarify this for me?
ReplyDeleteTry the k2tog fb like this:
ReplyDeletehttps://youtu.be/syFeOy1B9Ok